Gattinara Ghemme Wine Tour

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which lays 90 miles to the south. Tall-growing Nebbiolo vines hug a collection of steep, rounded slopes with exposures in all directions.

But less-apparent differences, in climate and soil, give the wines of Gattinara their own distinctive character. The Alps loom closer, most notably

the glacial peak of Monte Rosa, cooling the nights and bringing frequent rain.

The earth itself is nothing like Barolo’s clay and sand: the ground is a tough, stony mixture of red volcanic porphyry and granite.